What's In A Name

Convivo Bistro
7000 N. 16th Street
Phoenix, AZ 85020
602.997.7676

Nestled in the shadow of Squaw…sorry Piestewa Peak, is another Phoenix staple that has undergone a change, if not in name, in ownership. Convivo Bistro is now under the competent ownership and operation of Chef Christian Martin. The tiny restaurant is inconspicuoulsy tucked into a strip mall behind a Walgreen’s and next to a nail salon. If you’re not after q-tips or a french manicure, you might not know it was there.

Glass, beechwood and white linen greet patrons on entry. A cozy environment of about fourteen tables is arranged in full view of the bar and open kitchen. Lightly textured walls and modern oil-on-canvas art complement the simple elegance of the small dining area.

For starters the Caesar salad l’orange ($9) is a delightful summer twist on a traditional plate. Orange wedges amid the greens accent the orange-laced dressing. The duck terrine ($9) was served alongside a bed of bitter greens topped with a raspberry vinagrette and crostini. The vinagrette is appealing as a standalone dressing but it overwhelmed the delicate richness of the terrine. Bread is freshly baked by Wildflower Bread Company. But the real story of the bread is in the butter. A trio of pats included pesto butter and a surprisingly tangy sweet red pepper-chili butter.

Martin truly comes into his own with the main dishes. The special, halibut wrapped in bacon with a pineapple sauce and grilled pea pods ($27) was a delightful Hawaiian inspired entrée. My wife and dining companion insists that I note that the peas were the “best vegetable” she has ever tasted. A testament to Martin’s showcasing of organically grown produce. The rack of lamb ($32) was perfectly tender and cooked just as requested. The eight chops, yes eight, were crusted with bread crumbs and gorgonzola and displayed around a haystack of buttered spaghetti squash and more of the same organic vegetables-- a large portion by anyone’s measurement.

Simple desserts ($7) rounded out the experience. The signature ancho chili brownie had a wonderfully smoky understated aftertaste that was complemented by a mild cinnamon ice cream. The chocolate raspberry cake was moist and drizzled with a raspberry sauce. Cointreau truffles ($2/ea) were accompanied by crystallized ginger and dried saguaro cactus fruits. The saguaro fruits were a dried, nutty, raspberry-textured delight. The truffle plate was complements of the chef for our anniversary.

Not to be forgotten, service was deftly handled by a staff of only two, Brooke and Joe. Friendly and attentive, but never overbearing, we felt as though there was a staff of ten.

Great for a romantic night out or a casual dinner with friends, Convivo Bistro is a wonderfully unique addition to the humdrum chains in the Camelback corridor.